The relentless summer heat is finally
abating and pumpkins have surreptitiously started making their
appearances around town. An entire cemetery seems to have sprouted
overnight on my neighbor's front lawn. In the spirit of Halloween, my
thoughts, along with half of Birmingham's, have turned towards the
beloved horror flicks of my youth. In particular, I've been thinking
about the classic (and somewhat offensive) movie trope:
Indian
Burial Ground. If you grew up watching
Pet Sematary,
The
Shining, or pretty much any other scary movie from the 1980s,
then you probably decided at an early age that checking for an Indian
Burial Ground under the foundation should be an integral part of any
home inspection. While we may have moved on in recent decades, both
in movie premises and in terminology (I'm thrilled the ambiguous
misnomer, “Indian,”is finally leaving the vernacular), the fear
of what lies beneath may have only solidified, particularly if you
live in Mexico City.
Those of us in the United States are
no strangers to
the
controversy involved with developing sites that are
already
home to precious archaeological resources. However, for most of
us, the frequency of coming across these issues just isn't enough to
become a practical concern when planning a renovation or construction
project. On the other hand, if you own property in Mexico City's
Centro Histórico, you might think twice before calling that
contractor over to take a look at the cracks forming in your
basement. The magnitude of buried archaeological remains is
incomparable to any urban center in the United States, possibly in
the world. They're taking it seriously, too. Before any major work
can be approved, you're legally obligated to allow archaeologists to
inspect the site. If any remains are found, it's up to you, the
property owner, to fund the excavation.
|
Zócalo, a pedestrian
square in the Centro Histórico of Mexico City
|
Furthermore, cracks and buckling
aren't uncommon sights. Dozens of feet beneath the surface of Mexico
City lies the remains of Tenochtitlán, a magnificent metropolis and
the center of the Aztec universe. Tenochtitlán was originally built
on an island in Lake Texcoco, complete with an intricate system of
canals and causeways. Tenochtitlán's
Templo Mayor, a pyramid
which towered over the city at 197', now rests its remains under the
Zócalo, a bustling pedestrian square and one of the most
recognizable places in Mexico City. Over time, the massive pyramid
and its surrounding structures sank into the area's soft clay
subsoil. The lake was filled in, the remainder of the pyramid dismantled, and the Spanish conquistadors built
their new capital directly over the old one (a politic decision,
rather than a pragmatic one). Today, at the Zócalo, sits the The
Metropolitan Cathedral, a beautiful Spanish-colonial building which took over
two centuries to construct and is a historic gem in its own right.
However, the presence of the Sacred Precinct directly underneath
presents more than just an archaeological conundrum. As water is
pumped from wells running beneath the city, the clay contracts, but
the density of the buried stone structures remains constant.
Consequently, streets buckle and curl atop them. Foundations are
compromised. The largest cathedral in the Americas is at peril, not
to mention countless other structures. As Eduardo Matos Moctezuma,
the lead archaeologist of the project and a local hero, poetically put it, “It’s
the vengeance of the gods. The cathedral is falling and the monuments
to the ancient gods are what’s causing it to fall.”
|
Artist's rendering of the Templo Mayor |
“It’s
the vengeance of the gods. The cathedral is falling and the monuments
to the ancient gods are what’s causing it to fall.”
Under the direction of Matos, serious
excavation of the area began in 1978. Despite decades of excavation
and 45 Aztec buildings discovered, there's still a long way to go.
Sometimes, optimal sites are identified on a small scale, like in the
basement of a tattoo parlor. Other times, events, like the
earthquake
of 1985 or the expansion of the subway system, unearth expansive
areas all at once. Only
last year, the
huey tzompantli (the "Great Skull Rack," mentioned in the
Codex Duran) was discovered during a dig beneath a building
on Guatemala Street. While typical excavation sites elsewhere are
identified by GPS coordinates, Tenochtitlán's digs get street
addresses. Even though it slows the process, maintaining the structural integrity of the buildings above
has to be a priority. Often, archaeologists find themselves in narrow
shafts, dozens of feet beneath the surface, suspended on their
stomachs (I believe this scenario was featured in my last nightmare).
Despite the challenges, the work will continue.
|
Excavating the huey tzompantli |
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Would you like to find this in your basement? |
Whether grand or humble, famous or
ordinary, each building you pass in the Centro Histórico hides a
secret beneath its foundation.
“That whole part of the city is like
a graveyard of people and of significant cultural objects,” David
Carrasco said. “And they awaken every time Mexico reaches for its
future.”
In conclusion, I'd like to take a
moment to acknowledge the wisdom of our younger selves; and, as
if you needed another reason, I hope the structural and regulatory complications have persuaded you to never, ever
build your home on top of Indian Burial Grounds... -Julia Browder